Roofing has a trust problem, and honestly, the industry earned it. Storm-chasers, door-knockers, disappearing warranties — every roofer in Douglas County has heard the horror stories, because we're the ones who get called to fix them.
The fix isn't complicated: ask direct questions before you sign, and pay attention to how they're answered. A professional outfit answers all twelve of these without flinching. Here they are, with why each matters and what a good answer sounds like.
The paperwork questions (1–3)
1. "What's your Oregon CCB license number?"
Why it matters: Oregon requires every contractor to hold an active CCB license, which means bonding and insurance are in place. Working with an unlicensed contractor leaves you with little recourse when things go wrong.
A good answer: The number, immediately, without hedging. Ours is CCB #255729. Then verify it yourself at search.ccb.state.or.us — takes about two minutes and shows license status, bond, insurance, and complaint history. We wrote a step-by-step guide to the CCB check; run it on us first.
2. "Can you send me a certificate of insurance?"
Why it matters: You want general liability and workers' comp. If an uninsured worker gets hurt on your property, that liability can land on you.
A good answer: "Sure — I'll have our agent send it over." Direct from the insurer, not a photocopy. Any hesitation here is disqualifying.
3. "Will this job be permitted?"
Why it matters: In Douglas County, reroofs over 100 square feet generally require a permit, and unpermitted work has a way of resurfacing when you sell the house. Details in our local permit guide.
A good answer: "Yes, we pull it and it's in the estimate." A contractor who suggests skipping the permit to save you money is telling you how they handle everything else, too.
The who-and-what questions (4–7)
4. "Who will actually be on my roof — your crew or subcontractors?"
Why it matters: Plenty of companies sell the job and sub out the labor to whoever's available that week. Subbing isn't automatically bad, but you deserve to know who's accountable, who's trained, and whose insurance covers the people on your house.
A good answer: A straight one. Either "our own employees" or "we use these specific subs, they've worked with us for years, and they're covered under this insurance." Vagueness here — "we have guys" — is the warning sign.
5. "What underlayment are you installing, exactly?"
Why it matters: Underlayment is the waterproof layer under the shingles — the part doing the real work through an Oregon winter. It's also the easiest place for a low bid to quietly cheap out, because you'll never see it.
A good answer: A specific product name and type (synthetic underlayment rather than old-school felt, and ice-and-water membrane in valleys and around penetrations), written on the estimate. "Standard underlayment" written on a bid is not a spec, it's a shrug.
6. "Are you replacing the flashing or reusing it?"
Why it matters: Flashing — the metal at chimneys, walls, and valleys — is where most roof leaks actually start. Reusing tired flashing under brand-new shingles is a classic corner cut that turns into a service call three winters later. Douglas County also requires kick-out flashing at sidewalls.
A good answer: "Replaced, and it's itemized on the estimate." Reusing flashing occasionally makes sense (some chimney counterflashing in good condition), but the default on a full replacement should be new, and any exception should be explained to you, not discovered by you.
7. "How do you handle cleanup — and do you run a magnet?"
Why it matters: A tear-off drops thousands of nails. The difference between a professional crew and a cheap one is often most visible in your flowerbeds and your truck tires the week after.
A good answer: Daily cleanup, tarps over landscaping, a dumpster placed where you agree it goes, and a magnetic sweep of the lawn and driveway before they leave. If they look puzzled by the magnet question, keep shopping.
The money-and-terms questions (8–12)
8. "What warranty do I get — from the manufacturer and from you?"
Why it matters: These are two different things. The manufacturer warrants the shingles; the contractor warrants the installation. Most first-decade roof problems are installation problems, which the manufacturer warranty won't touch. We break the whole subject down in our roof warranty guide.
A good answer: Both halves, in writing: the manufacturer's material warranty terms, plus a specific workmanship warranty from the company itself. Also ask who registers the manufacturer warranty — that step gets skipped more than you'd think.
9. "What's the payment schedule?"
Why it matters: This is where the horror stories start. A contractor who wants most of the money before the first shingle comes off is either underfunded or planning a short relationship with you.
A good answer: A modest deposit, with the balance tied to milestones — materials delivered, tear-off complete, final walkthrough. Red flags: large cash-up-front demands, "sign today" discounts, and pressure to release final payment before you've walked the finished job.
10. "What's the realistic timeline, and what delays it?"
Why it matters: An honest answer includes the weather. In our October-to-May wet season, a crew that promises hard dates regardless of rain is either going to blow the date or roof in conditions they shouldn't.
A good answer: A working window plus honesty: "Two to four days once we start; if a storm rolls in mid-job, we dry it in and finish when it's safe." That's a crew protecting your house, not their schedule.
11. "How do you handle change orders — like rotten decking?"
Why it matters: Nobody knows what the plywood looks like until tear-off. What matters is whether surprises are priced before the job (a per-sheet allowance on the estimate) or sprung on you mid-job when you have no leverage.
A good answer: "Deck repair is on the estimate at a set price per sheet; we photograph anything we find and get your OK before proceeding." Our guide to reading a roofing estimate shows exactly what that line should look like.
12. "Can I see recent local work and talk to references?"
Why it matters: Local, recent, and reachable is the test. A company from out of the area with no local track record has no local reputation to protect.
A good answer: Addresses of recent jobs you can drive past, and homeowners willing to take a call. We keep our recent work posted, and we're based in Riddle — our references are our neighbors.
The meta-question
Watch how a contractor handles being questioned. A pro treats these twelve as a normal Tuesday. Defensiveness, vagueness, or "don't worry about that" is itself the answer. Whether it's a full replacement or a small repair, you're hiring the answers as much as the roof.
And if you'd rather have an ongoing relationship than a one-time gamble, that's what our Home Care Membership is for — annual inspections, priority scheduling, and a photo report after every visit, from $49/month, no long-term contracts.
Quick answers
What license does a roofing contractor need in Oregon?
An active Oregon CCB license, which requires bonding and insurance. Ask for the number and verify it free at search.ccb.state.or.us — license status, bond, insurance, and complaint history in about two minutes. Hesitation to share a CCB number is disqualifying.
Should I ask a roofer for proof of insurance?
Always. Request a certificate of insurance showing general liability and workers' comp, sent directly from the insurer. If an uninsured worker is hurt on your property, the liability can land on you. Pros can produce this within a day.
How much deposit is normal for a roofing job?
A modest deposit with the balance tied to progress or completion. The red flags are demands for most of the money up front, cash discounts for paying today, and pressure to pay in full before you've walked the finished job.
What warranty questions should I ask?
Two separate ones: what the manufacturer warrants (materials) and what the contractor warrants in writing (workmanship). Most first-decade problems are installation issues the manufacturer won't cover. Also ask who registers the manufacturer warranty.