⚡ Quick answer
A proper roof replacement includes a full tear-off to the deck, deck inspection and repair, drip edge, synthetic underlayment, ice-and-water shield in valleys and around penetrations, new flashing (step, kick-out, pipe boots), the shingles or metal panels, ridge ventilation and ridge cap, then magnetic-sweep cleanup, haul-away, and the permit. In Douglas County a full tear-off is required — overlays aren't allowed. The layers you can't see from the street are exactly where cheap bids cut costs.
When homeowners around Roseburg and Myrtle Creek compare roofing bids, they usually compare one number: the total. But a roof is a system of layers, and two bids with the same total can describe very different roofs. This guide walks the whole scope, top to bottom, so you know what a complete roof replacement actually includes — and what to look for on the estimate.
1. Tear-off (down to the deck)
Everything comes off — old shingles, underlayment, and flashing — down to the bare wood decking. In some states roofers nail a new layer over the old; Douglas County doesn't allow overlays, so a full tear-off is required, and honestly it's the right way regardless. Tear-off is what lets the crew see and fix what's underneath. If a bid mentions "roof-over" or "recover," it's not code-compliant here — see our Douglas County permit guide.
2. Deck inspection and repair
Once the old roof is off, the plywood or OSB sheathing is exposed and inspected. In our wet climate, hidden rot or delamination is common — especially around old leaks, valleys, and penetrations. Bad sheets get replaced. Because no one knows how many sheets are bad until the roof is open, this is usually priced per sheet. A trustworthy bid states that per-sheet price up front so there's no surprise. Vague or missing deck pricing is a classic bid trap — our guide to reading an estimate covers it.
3. Drip edge
Metal drip edge goes along the eaves and rakes to direct water into the gutters and off the fascia instead of behind them. It's inexpensive and code-expected, but it's occasionally "forgotten" on cut-rate bids. In 30-plus inches of annual rain, drip edge protects your fascia and the top of your gutters.
4. Synthetic underlayment
This is the moisture barrier over the whole deck, under the shingles — your roof's second line of defense. Modern synthetic underlayment is stronger and more water-resistant than old felt paper and doesn't wrinkle when it gets damp during install (a real advantage in our climate). Cheap bids sometimes spec 15-lb felt to save a little; in western Oregon, that's a corner you don't want cut.
5. Ice-and-water shield
A self-sealing membrane in the highest-risk spots — the valleys, around chimneys and vents, and along eaves — where wind-driven rain and standing water attack first. It seals around nail penetrations, so even if water gets past the shingles it can't reach the deck. This is one of the most important layers for our weather, and it's exactly the kind of hidden item budget bids skip. Read why ice-and-water shield matters here.
6. New flashing
Flashing seals every joint where the roof meets something else — walls, chimneys, skylights, valleys, and pipes. A proper replacement installs new step flashing, kick-out flashing at wall-to-roof transitions (required locally), and fresh pipe boots. Beware bids that say "reuse existing flashing where possible" — reused flashing is a leading cause of early leaks. Our flashing guide shows what good flashing looks like.
7. The shingles or metal panels
Finally, the part you can see. For most Douglas County homes we install Owens Corning architectural shingles with algae-resistant granules — the sweet spot for our rain and moss (compare tiers in our architectural vs. 3-tab guide). For homeowners who want maximum lifespan, we install standing-seam metal. A good bid names the exact product line, not just "30-year architectural."
8. Ventilation and ridge cap
A roof has to breathe. Proper intake and exhaust ventilation (usually ridge vents plus soffit intake) keeps the attic dry and stops the condensation and premature aging our damp climate causes — our attic ventilation guide explains why it matters so much here. The ridge cap finishes and seals the peak. Skipping ventilation shortens the life of a brand-new roof.
9. Cleanup, haul-away, and the permit
The job isn't done at the last shingle. A complete replacement includes a magnetic nail sweep of the yard and driveway, full haul-away of all debris, a final walkthrough, and photo documentation. And we pull the Douglas County permit — required for full replacements — so you don't have to. A contractor who leaves the permit to you is one to question.
The bid checklist
A complete estimate names all of these: tear-off, per-sheet deck price, drip edge, synthetic underlayment, ice-and-water shield locations, new flashing (step, kick-out, boots), the exact shingle or panel line, ventilation, cleanup and haul-away, permit, and both the manufacturer and workmanship warranties. If any are missing, ask why before you compare totals. Our warranty guide covers the last one.
What about gutters?
Gutters usually aren't part of a standard roof scope — but they should match a new roof, because in the Umpqua Valley your gutters move a lot of water (see our Oregon gutter guide). Right now every new roof from Mistletoe includes $500 off, plus free whole-home gutters on qualifying roofs ($20k+) — so on larger jobs, new gutters come with the package. Ask about it when you get your estimate.
Quick answers
What's the most-skipped item on cheap bids?
Ice-and-water shield, synthetic underlayment, and new flashing — the hidden layers. They don't show from the street, so budget bids quietly downgrade them.
Is the plywood decking included?
Inspection is; replacement of bad sheets is usually priced per sheet since the amount is unknown until tear-off. A stated per-sheet rate signals an honest bid.
Do you pull the permit?
Yes — full replacements in Douglas County require one and overlays aren't allowed, so we handle the permit and the required tear-off for you.
How do I see the full scope for my roof?
Get a free written estimate that lists every layer. Call or text (541) 670-5005 or start an instant estimate.